The crust test illuminates a great debate among some bakers. Vermont Cultured Salted Butter. The people who run the Safeway dairy labs in Walnut Creek agreed to send our set of unlabeled butter samples to an independent lab they regularly contract with. A 2013 meta-study published in the "European Journal of Nutrition" reviewed 16 earlier studies, with similar results. Abroad, the minimum is 82 percent; here, it’s 80 percent; everywhere, it’s lower for salted butter. Plugra, in particular, suffered from this. The Land O' Lakes sauce, a pale lemon yellow, had the best balance, allowing the flavors of shallot, vinegar and wine to blend nicely into a whole. This mild, sweet butter, made in Hayward, tastes fresh with a slight tang. Are you still trying to unlock the secret behind a perfectly flakey pie crust? Straus Family Creamery, a favorite of Chez Panisse's Alice Waters, had no pull date. The Highest Percentage of Fat in the Milk of an Animal. (Tie) Lucerne (Safeway) and Land O' Lakes. It’s created when cream is vigorously churned, which causes its solids (butterfat) and liquids (buttermilk) to separate, and ultimately results in the firm product we all know and love. The butter we all know and love is of the sweet cream variety. Although The Chronicle's Best Way column recommends using equal parts of shortening and butter in a pie crust, we prepared all-butter crusts for our test. Before that, butter is 16-17% water and 1-2% milk proteins (also known as milk solids). The texture is slightly waxy. Butter is a dairy product made from milk or cream. Therefore, sell-by dates wouldn't mean much. One butter, Challenge, tasted so salty that we were sure it had been mislabeled as sweet butter. Butter (German: "die Butter") is made from butterfat in the cream of cows, sheep, and goats (and sometimes other mammals). In 2015, the shift started – th… European-Style Butter. The Cremerie Classique cake was tender, but not quite as light as the Land O' Lakes cake. For a series of performance tests, we selected the butter with the highest fat content (Straus Family Creamery, at almost 86 percent), the butter with the lowest fat content and the highest water content (Land O' Lakes with 80 percent fat and almost 18 percent water) and our favorite table butter, Cremerie Classique (82 percent fat and about 16 percent moisture). Other butters tasted included Clover Stornetta, Challenge, Horizon, Straus Family Creamery, Organic Valley, Tillamook, Luvpak Danish, Challenge European, Plugra and Beurre President. The difference is purely one of custom, rather than science, since milk and butter contain exactly the same kind of fat. The only marking on samples were numbers, and each butter was tested twice. Modern cookbooks turn that around, referring to butter by its milk fat content. This high-fat layer, known as cream, can then be churned to bring the fat globules together and form butter. Decker wrote for the Saint John, New Brunswick Telegraph-Journal, and has been published in Canada's Hospitality and Foodservice magazine. Perhaps it’s that extra bit along with this butter’s perfect balance of cream and salt. If you think all butters are pretty much the same, you would be wrong. It had a deep, butter flavor and a powerful, nutty aroma. Because the percentage of milk solids differs in each butter, and those solids become dark brown particles in the sauce, each sample looked different. Land O’Lakes European butter contains 82 percent, while American butters are only required to contain 80. 3. Clarified butter is butter with the water and milk proteins removed, leaving a composition of 99-100% pure butterfat. It is available at markets like Andronico's and Whole Foods. Butters … Berkeley Farms. © Copyright 2020 Hearst Communications, Inc. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen; Harold McGee. Sweet Cream Butter. Although butter prices change regularly, we watched the price over the course of several weeks and it never rose above $4 a pound. Many researchers are now revisiting the earlier assumptions about dairy fat and its relationship to health concerns, in search of a better and more nuanced understanding of the mechanisms involved. Président. Does Butter Really Make Everything Better? The differences in taste and performance amazed our team of tasters. The lipids or fats point into the center of the globule, while the phosphates or proteins like the watery liquid outside of the globules. In the Land O' Lakes cake, the steam created by the extra moisture and the lighter butterfat made for a lighter cake. This butter is not discreet. We used the average of the two scores. The Straus cake was rich in butter flavor and had a course, rustic texture. However, the dairy plans to put pull dates on its new packages in the future. A Chronicle survey of prices in November and December showed vast differences between months and between stores. The Cremerie Classique sauce had what looked like fine pepper sprinkled throughout and a light nutty butter flavor. The Land O' Lakes crust was bland, but had a crisp flake and more height. But the Land O' Lakes crust seemed a good choice for sturdier uses like pot pies. From 2000 to 2014, the average annual producer protein price was higher than butterfat every year. The fat in milk naturally takes the shape of tiny spheres, or globules, because of tiny lipid molecules that adhere to fats at one end and repel water at the other. Butterfat ranged from the legal minimum of 80 percent to nearly 86 percent. It is a rush of tangy, salty … Even Land O' Lakes, the only national brand, and house brands like Safeway's Lucerne, crept over $4. Irish butter brands usually follow the European standard of producing butter with an 82% butterfat content, though there are variations. While that changes its quality slightly, the savings can sometimes be as much as $1 per pound. The standards for the minimum amount of butterfat in butter are different in Europe and America. The Cremerie Classique sauce had a slightly sharper flavor from the wine and vinegar reduction. This European-style butter from Raven Creamery Co. in Portland, Ore. is sweet, with hints of vanilla and tang and lots of old- fashioned butter flavor. Irish butter's superiority in one creamy secret. After much discussion with baking and science experts, we concluded that the high amount of fat in the Straus cake kept it from developing as tender a texture. Land O' Lakes butter is my go-to butter for baking," explained recipe developer Leah Klein of City Living Boston. When it comes to flavor, our panel discovered that how a butter is stored makes almost as much difference as how much flavor-giving butterfat it contains. -- 5. Surprisingly, a high butterfat content wasn't the key to the best-tasting butter. This rich butter is made in Ireland and has a pale yellow color, because it is made from grass-fed cow’s milk, free of antibiotics and hormones, with 82 percent butterfat. The Cremerie Classique crust was flaky but not as crisp and had a buttery flavor. Butterfat contains about 3% trans fat, which is slightly less than 0.5 grams per US tablespoon. This portable charger is $14 and can charge your phone 6... How a virtual movie club has helped me survive the pandemic, Silliker Laboratories of Northern California. As you noted, the nutrition facts counts for Land O' Lakes at 80% butterfat and Kerrygold at 82% butterfat are the same. Cremerie Classique. When Put to the Test, Here's How Butter Brands Stack Up, In 1999, California, the second largest producer of butter in the nation, produced 343 million pounds of butter. The distinctions between different kinds of milk and cream labels can be confusing. A more natural diet, produce a better milk, and then better butter. We whisked them into beurre blanc and baked them into pound cake. What’s the big deal? Many of the butters received low scores because they had off-flavors which we surmised they had picked up during transport or on the supermarket shelf. Lucerne surprised us with its mild dairy notes and fresh taste, which some described as almost floral. To make clarified butter, you simmer unsalted butter in a pan over low heat. Each butter may have been exposed to any number of problems in shipping, storage, stock rotation or packaging, all of which can affect the delicate taste. Where Does the Fat Come From in Instant Oatmeal? Not all butter is created equal! Gerber Butterfat Content Determination Method. Looking to discover the difference cultured butter can make? Butterfat composition and types of butter. A 2012 study published in the "Scandinavian Journal of Primary Health Care" reviewed the overall health of a group of middle-aged rural Swedes. "Fat really absorbs moisture molecules quite well. One of the advantages of multiple component pricing is: It provides clear pricing signals to dairy farmers in regards to the economic value of milk components. Its butterfat content is 82%, which … In January 2000, multiple component pricing became the milk pricing system for about 90 percent of federal order milk production. . That extra 2 percent is usually made up of fat, which helps the butter become the delectable, spreadable texture you know and love. They all begin with whole milk, which consists of three components: water, milk solids, and butterfat. Cremerie Classique is made by Raven Creamery in Portland, OR, a small dairy employing just 11 people. Maybe that extra two percent really pushed this butter from being good (like it’s honorable mention cousin) to great. It has nearly 85 percent butterfat vs. approximately 80 percent for regular (American) butter. To determine the difference in moisture content, butterfat, salt and milk solids, we turned to the scientists. In making the pastry, there was little noticeable difference in the three brands of butter, although it appeared that the Straus butter blended into the dough quicker. This French standard, which involves simply melting butter until it browns, is making a comeback as a simple sauce for vegetables and fish. The Chronicle spent several weeks exploring 15 widely available brands of unsalted butter. For complete results, see the accompanying chart. -- The Bottom Line: The flavor and aroma of Straus made it a clear winner. Land O' Lakes, from Minnesota, was characterized as the classic American butter. The answer is butterfat. Near perfection. That extra 2% of butterfat … The best news may be that it is a relative bargain. This test was so interesting that we ended up repeating it four times. In older cookbooks, you might find cream, milk and low-fat milk described in terms of their content of butter fat. It was so rich, in fact, that it masked all the other flavors. Butter is a commodity, and wholesale prices are set largely through trading at the Chicago Mercantile Exchange. Clear butterfat rises to the top of melted butter and may be poured off, leaving the albuminous curd and water that favour the growth of organisms promoting rancidity; thus, anhydrous butterfat does not become rancid as readily as butter and can be stored unrefrigerated for several months. European-style butter is slow churned and cultured which creates a creamier texture with less moisture. The remainder consists of … Horizon was $3.99 in November and $4.99 in December at Andronico's; at Safeway, Tillamook was $2.89 in November and $4.19 in December. The Difference Between Salted and Unsalted Butter The only real difference between salted and unsalted butter is literally the salt: All butter is made from milkfat in cream and contains at least 80 percent milkfat, 18 percent water, and 2 percent solids (mainly protein and salt), explains Jen Giambroni, a dairy expert with Real California Milk. . He's held positions selling computers, insurance and mutual funds, and was educated at Memorial University of Newfoundland and the Northern Alberta Institute of Technology. Twelve years after the initial survey, participants with a high intake of dairy fat had the lowest rate of central obesity, while those with the lowest consumption of dairy fat had the highest rates. One butter, Challenge, tasted so salty that we were sure it had been mislabeled as sweet butter. Because Straus butter is made from cows that graze and isn't ultra- pasteurized or cultured, it is particularly volatile. Full-fat milk is usually homogenized at the dairy, a process that makes the fat globules so small they'll remain evenly dispersed throughout the milk and not separate, as they otherwise would. European style butter contains more butterfat than the above two varieties. When mixed with shortening, it should produce a crust with even better flake. One camp prefers a high-moisture butter to get the crispness and lift that comes when water turns to steam and explodes the fat globules that surround it. One butter executive advises buying butter in November when it is cheaper and freezing it. If you like rich, butter flavor and prefer a courser cake, go for the Straus. The butterfat (also known as milk fat) is found in small, round globules surrounded by a membrane of phospholipids and lipoproteins. The three cakes we baked couldn't have been more different. (And is the reason why European butter is so expensive—it's often 85 percent fat.) But the lab results showed salt was less than .05 percent -- about the same as the other butters. Vivien Straus attributes that to the vagaries of her small dairy. -- 1. Butter is almost entirely fat, as it is made by separating out the fat and then whipping it to encourage it to coalesce into a mass. -- The Bottom Line: Land O' Lakes makes the best beurre blanc. Because of butter’s low melting point, the dough tends to spread during baking before the structure sets. Here are the results: . The Cremerie Classique cake seemed like a good compromise, with a lighter texture. Butterfat ranged from the legal minimum of 80 percent to nearly 86 percent. According to the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, a single teaspoon of butter contains 4 grams of fat, of which 2.5 grams is saturated fat. American butter is usually around 80 percent fat, although the exact amount varies from brand to brand. It's like a sponge, and the longer it sits around in a grocery store the more flavors it picks up. The company started making the premium butter a couple of years ago at the urging of some French bakers. Butter is a natural food made from milk, while margarine is a processed food made from chemically altered vegetable oils. But, bottom line: It didn't do well in our tasting. Our cultured butter also has less moisture than sweet cream butter, which also boasts great results in cooking and baking. I live in Canada, where a breadth of butterfat options are available, but butters with butterfat ratios above 80 tend to be quite pricey. But the labels for Straus Family Creamery (a Northern California dairy) at 85% butterfat and Vermont Creamery at 88% butterfat are also the same: both read 12 grams of fat and 110 calories per 1 T. serving. At the same time, the water content in the butter is evaporating, and what’s left is pure butterfat. Sweet cream butter is made from butter that is fresh and sweet tasting, rather than aged and tart. Although our favorite was Cremerie Classique, coming in at about 82 percent butterfat, the second place winners -- Lucerne and Land O' Lakes -- just met the U.S. Department of Agriculture standard of 80 percent. The Straus sauce looked like coarse pepper had been sprinkled over it. Salted butter typically contains 1-2% salt by weight, or about a 1/4 teaspoon of salt per stick. Saturated Fats Are Primarily Found in What Groups? The theory here is that the fat coats the tongue, canceling out the sharpness of the other ingredients in the sauce. What Are the Benefits of Ingesting Coconut Oil? Fred Decker is a trained chef and certified food-safety trainer. It's creamy and rich from butterfat, but not so high in fat that it is overwhelming. Others prefer the rich mouthfeel and flavor of high-fat butter, especially when it comes to croissants and puff pastry. The fat content of whole milk can vary among individual cows, among breeds or even from month to month as the animal's fodder changes. How Is Fat Separated From Milk to Make Skim Milk? Butterfat definition is - the natural fat of milk and chief constituent of butter consisting essentially of a mixture of glycerides (such as those derived from butyric, capric, caproic, and caprylic acids). The Cremerie Classique cake had a pronounced sweetness and rose higher than Land O' Lakes but not as high as Straus, which rose the highest just out of the oven but ended up with the densest texture. Although butterfat is typically 82% in Europe, in the US most butter is actually 80% (US dictated minimum). The Land O' Lakes cake had a much lighter texture and the flavor faded quickly. We bought all the butters at the same time and immediately put them into self-sealing plastic bags. Butter tends to be cheaper in November than in December, when more people bake. The packaging on some sticks of unsalted butter boasts their contents have an 85% butterfat content. Anchor Like Kerrygold, Anchor is yellow because of the grass the cows are eating, compared to the white butter derived from the milk of corn-fed cows. The biggest difference in Kerrygold butter starts with the milk. . It also tasted saltier and had a pronounced butter flavor. Eventually, the milk solids in the butter sink to the bottom and begin to brown. It's light-colored, mild and slightly grassy tasting. Other sources include butter or anhydrous milkfat. Butter fat testing using Gerber method is one of the many quality assurance test procedures carried out in milk. Butterfat. The primary difference between grass-fed and regular butter is whether the cows used to produce the butter were allowed to graze on grass or were fed … In order for a churned dairy product to be considered butter, it must contain at least 80 percent butterfat. "It always has the best results." 1. The strong flavor appealed to some for eating at the table but others thought it would be too rich for baking. Others said it was simply yummy. Scandinavian Journal of Primary Health Care: High Dairy Fat Intake Related to Less Central Obesity -- A Male Cohort Study With 12 Years' Follow-up, European Journal of Nutrition: The Relationship Between High-Fat Diary Consumption and Obesity, Cardiovascular and Metabolic Disease. The best source of butterfat in ice cream for high quality flavour and convenience is fresh sweet cream from fresh sweet milk. In 2013, protein was almost double the price of butterfat, $3.30 per pound to $1.66 per pound. That high fat content makes it great tasting, but the vital statistics include 12 grams of fat , 8 of which are saturated fat, and 31 milligrams of cholesterol. Very wrong. It is a simpler modification of the Babcock method with special butyrometers for various dairy products. All of the samples we tried had a variety of dates, many extending into 2001. The remaining traces of milk are rinsed out of the butterfat in cold water and the mass is compressed into a solid lump or brick of butter. -- 4. Most breeds average 3.5 percent to 4 percent butter fat. Distribution is limited to a few Western states. This keeps them from pooling together like the oil in your vinaigrette, but they're still lighter than the watery whey and will tend to rise to the top of the milk. And that’s what you get when you purchase unsalted butter or sweet cream butter, which is simply salted butter. Generations of health professionals have advised the public to limit their consumption of butter and other full-fat dairy products because saturated fat consumption had been associated with increased risk of cardiovascular disease and obesity. This French import is slightly oily and has a light tang and rustic look. The milk that is used to produce this butter is from cows that eat grass. These butters are not cultured, so expect a more neutral flavor. Since production varies, depending on how many nonfat products are sold (which enables the dairy to siphon off the extra cream) and how much milk the cows produce, Straus often freezes its butter for later sale when supplies may be low. Whipping cream can have between 30 and 35%, and heavy cream has at least 36%. That is probably because high-fat butter softens and melts faster. It's not subtle. -- The Bottom Line: It comes down to personal preference. In a blind tasting, some of the expensive, high-fat butters Bay Area chefs swear by scored very low because they had slightly musty, off flavors probably picked up from store refrigeration. Price: $$ Plugrá is a European style butter that was specifically designed to produce superior baked goods. Grass-fed milk has a richer taste and is creamier, thus why Kerrygold butter has … Along with 80% butterfat, the average butter sold in the United States contains about 16-18% water and 2-4% additional components, such as milk solids and sometimes salt. Whole milk usually has around 3.5% butterfat. Once baked, the Straus crust was the flatest, and was soft and just slightly crisp. Prices generally drop again in January. -- The Bottom Line: Cremerie Classique was the tasters' favorite. Shortages in cream supplies and higher demand can drive prices up, as was the case in 1998 and early 1999. Plenty of luxe types of butter exist on the market, but time-honored supermarket staples like Land O'Lakes can totally get the job done, especially in a utilitarian baking context. " While American butter contains just 80% butterfat, European butter has been churned for a longer period of time, giving it 82% butterfat. 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